Lighter Weight Cornhole

A couple of years ago I had built the normal 2 x 4 and plywood version of corn-hole, they are big bulky, and heavy. They weight in at 27 LBS a piece, or 54 LBS for the set. They are great for get together at my house but are hard to move and can take up a lot of room in the back of the hatchback.

A family member asked if I could make a set for a cousins wedding as a gift, in the wedding livery colors to boot. I figured it was a perfect chance to design a new lighter set and make it easier to carry as well. I used Pine 4 x 1 and nice 1/2 " cabinetry plywood.

I designed all the Parts in Solid Works, making sure the legs swing and stop at the correct height for regulation corn-hole. I did not include the screws and hardware but did use the center of gravity tools in solid works to put the handles at the correct spot so that they will not tip as you carry them.

Fire up V-Carve and make the needed GCODE for the X-Carve

Start Screwing, and adjusting the fit of all the pieces. Wood putty and sand all the screw holes not just the top ones

Paint the Base and legs and then sand the upper ply wood surface

Final Assembly and testing.

They look great, carved in the happy couples name and wedding date on the sides and back as well just for good measure.

Total weight after assembly is 20 LBS and they are way easier to carry with provided handles. You can now carry both without problems as they are very balanced and lightweight.

The next iteration will include a thin cutout on the bottom middle section, to slide the corn hole bags into and close so you can be ready to go with your suitcase corn hole game set.

Speaking of bags I have now ordered two sets from this seller on Amazon ( some colors are PRIME) and are very happy, they sell them individually so you can make your own color combos or they sell pre-selected color sets.

Comments

X-Carving 3D STLs

Reading around on the inventables forums, I found a post about a new web based CAM generator from STLs, it also does other functions FDM and LASER, called kiri moto . For a web based CAM generator it does a good job, it is a work in progress and has been updated with new features already. Read the thread above for all that has happened in the past month. As for my project, I had some STL files for things I have 3D printed in the past, so I sliced and processed some code from kiri:moto. You can manage your tools and Post Processors in the web page and post code quickly. The videos and instructions are good to start but the results are the true test. Overall I am very happy with how it cut, I started in foam just so I could not worry about stray code and as it is not a simulator, like some other CAM software. It made good code for a free web based CAM generator and I look forward to the new additions as the developer continues improving this tool. At this time I am eva

X-Carve calibration

I followed these steps: for the X and Y using the same shinwa machinist rule and an engraving bit: I used a dial indicator to calibrate my Z axis as in this video I then calculated the change from the measured vs actual that I came up with from the initial setup and changed my settings in Mach4. I have not had to re-calibrate since I originally setup my X-Carve but I have also not pushed it too hard as of this point.

My X-Carve first project

Well not my first ( I used the 2d drawings from inventables for the clamps to make a couple of clamps) but the most in-depth and coolest one to date. I designed a hat and mitten rack for a friends children in SolidWorks, it provides 10 hangers per child for gloves, mittens, boots, or hats. It was designed around the constraints that it must all be machined from one 31" x 31" piece of wood. This includes the two halves and the base or feet. The two halves interlock to form what looks like a tree and that allows it to be small while having plenty of space for all of the drying needs of two small children. V Carve Pro 7.0 is used for creating the code for my x carve to run in Mach4 I spaced out all the pieces in Solid Works by 7.5 mm to insure a 1/4 end mill could pass between all the parts without nicking and damaging any of the parts. I then used 1/4 Yonico end mill at 30ipm with a step down of 1.0 mm and a 40% step over to profile all of the pieces. I also used th

PTO X-Carve

Search This Blog